I fancied a day out, a change of scenery from that out of the window. It had been a stressful couple of weeks, what with one thing and another, and to be honest I was feeling the heat (both metaphorically as well as the 27C outside). My Beloved was of course at work, but the kids were home to keep an eye on our four legged friends. I'd had a couple of good rambles through my local forest in recent weeks and didn't want to go there again, so decided to hop on the Metro and head to the north end of the M1 line, which on Google Maps looked to lay a couple of kilometers from both the Wisła river and a similar forest. A different part of town, so why not? I packed some sandwiches and a bottle of drink in my backpack, my current read, a notebook and pen, and headed off.
I read the book on the train, still not quite sure where I would end up, and then, as we pulled into Świętokrzyśzka station (about half way) did a Harry Bright and decided, quite spontaneously, to go elsewhere, further afield. So I hopped off at Dwórzec Gdański station, and went to look at the departure boards at the adjoining mainline station. If there were no suitable trains due, I could always go back on the Metro and return to my original plan.
In the event, I had the choice of two trains, both leaving within 10 minutes. The first was to Modlin, but apart from the airport, a Ryanair stronghold, there looks to be bugger all there, just another small Polish country town. The second, leaving a couple of minutes earlier, was a PKP Intercity service to Olsztyn. On the edge of the Mazurian lake district, on a sizeable (but still comparatively small) lake, I had never been there. But a mate of mine had holidayed there a couple of times at a hotel on the lake, and had waxed lyrical to me about the place, in particular its Old Town and lakeside harbour.
Decision made, then - Olsztyn it is.
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I tried to buy my ticket at the machine, and queued for a couple of minutes behind a pair of giggly schoolgirls, possibly bunking off for the day in the good weather. They wandered off eventually and I quickly plugged in my journey details, and waited, card in hand, for my ticket price and payment options to come up. Instead, I got a mesage telling me PKP were unable to calculate my fare and I should go to the Ticket Office. No time for that, so I walked briskly up onto the platform as the guard was checking both ways to shut the doors and signal the train could go. I waved at him and quickened my pace (not quite a run, I don't do that) and to his credit he waited for me. I asked him if I could buy a ticket on board and in flawless English he agreed, so I hopped on and off we went.
I followed him through the WARS Buffet Car to his on-board office and I bought my ticket - one way 37zl (I had asked for a return, but it was a Lost in Translation moment and he sold me a one way, but I didn't notice until later) - a good bit less than I had expected. He wished me a good day, and I headed back through the brand new train to find my allocated window seat. The train was quite full, but I had a double to myself and settled in to enjoy the ride. The journey was set to take just over 2 hours to cover a couple of hundred kilometres with 5 intermediate stops.
A good part of the route followed the main high speed line that runs up through the Tri-Cities to Gdynia, branching off at Dzialdowo to meander through the rolling wooded hills on the edge of Mazury, through Olsztynek, to my final destination. Much of this final part of the ride was along a single track line, through small villages of a handful of houses and what may even have been request stops on the line (basically a concrete platform with a rudimentary glass and metal shelter like a bus-stop and no other building ), over unbarriered crossings of farm tracks, the train's horn parping every few minutes to warn of its approach. There had been half a dozen incidents that year where drivers had decided to run the risk and been hit by a train, with fatalities - Polish drivers really can be quite stupid. But this train had no problems: indeed I saw no cars or other vehicles close to any crossing, and indeed few signs of life anywhere, just a couple of combine harvesters working on the far side of one field we passed, and a tractor with a wagon load of freshly harvested grain passing through another field a bit further along.
After Olsztynek the view from my window became a bit more suburban and less rural, and we were soon clearly approaching the end of the line. I had been expecting a smallish lakeside port, with water views through the trees and sailboats dotting the lake. Intead we came to a smallish city, built on a continuation of the hills we had been traversing, with apartment blocks and shopping malls and small industrial units flanking the track, and not a sign of the three lakes that surround the place on Google Maps.
Then we pulled into Olsztyn Główny station, and day's challenges started.
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The place was a building site. One of the four platforms stood empty, the rest, once we had stopped, were occupied with more intercity trains heading off to I didn't see where, and the tunnel under them to the exit was also blocked off for repair work. So we all had to walk across the tracks, in front of the big diesel-electric locomotives, to leave the station. Although there are fewer in operation these days as PKP renews its passenger fleet, these beasts remain to me impressive machines, and hauling a rake of the heavy, old style carriages I prefer them to the newer EMU and Pendolino rolling stock for my rail journeys. They may be slower and the ride much less comfortable, but they are full of character.
In keeping with the work going on, the Ticket Office and overcrowded Waiting Room were housed in four interlinked portacabins, and I joined the International Tickets queue to buy my return to Waraw: first challenge. The middle aged lady who served me looked blank when I asked for a ticket to Warsaw, and in my rudimentary Polish I apologized: she pointedly ignored me and turned her head away. Lovely. Fortunately, a young girl at the next window noticed, and helped me with my purchase. Not the best introduction to the town....but at least I could get home now. And oddly the ticket was a little cheaper, 35zl this time. Even combined, the total ticket price was way below my original expectations and in my view, given the comfort and service quality of both trains, great value. No doubt my OAP status helped....
Outside the station the construction works continued onto the station forecourt, and I looked around for bus and tram stops, but especially for a street map: I had no idea whereabouts in town I was, and no idea which way to go to find the lake and harbour area. A couple of hundred yards away, beyond a sizeable roundabout, stood a McDonalds, next door to a bus stop and across from a tram stop, but there was no trace of a street map at the station. I wandered across to the McDonalds, and asked a few people if they spoke English: every one of them looked terrified, mumbled "No, I'm sorry" or something similar and ran off in the opposite direction. At the fifth attempt, a guy told me in halting English (admittedly better than my Polish) that I needed to go up the hill past the station and after two bus stops I would find the Town Hall (he called it by its German expression: Rathaus) and I should ask again there.
It took me probably twenty minutes to walk to the place, past at least three bus stops, and I walked into the Reception area, and again asked if anyone spoke English. A lady said she did, and I asked her the same question: how do I get to the harbour and the lake? She shrugged her shoulders, and said, "I no know." And returned to her coffee and magazine. Again fortunately, someone had overheard, this time a bloke probably close to my age, wearing grubby blue overalls and sitting in a small room who had wandered over to listen - whether security or simply a slightly nosy caretaker I have no idea. But he told me what I needed to know at least.
It turned out the lake was a good 6km away, but I could walk straight down the road outside, in the direction away from the station, and I would find it. Easy. Off I went, in no particular hurry. I was enjoying the views of actually quite an attracive little town. The station, despite its name: "głowny" which usually signifies the main station in the town and is normally very central, was clearly off the beaten track, because all the shops were small units like you see in most apartment blocks: the odd patisserie selling bread and cakes, some kebab and pizza shacks, several chemists (the apteka is the most common variety of retail outlet in the country by a big margin: they are everywhere) and some cheap looking clothes and shoe shops. None of them were from national chains and I didn't see a single mall of any size all day, which is most unusual here.
I walked for the best part of an hour, then came to a t-junction: now then, do I go left or right? Still no street map to be seen, and even the junction lacked a sign to tell you what was in which direction. I came to the conclusion that Olsztyn must be a very insular place, and everyone who lived or drove there knew exactly where they were. Not in the least tourist friendly. I pulled out my phone and booted up the Google Maps app - no internet connection. I looked both ways, crossed the street and decided to turn right, on the basis that it was downhill and therefore any water flowing nearby was likely to be going that way, to the lake. About 100m along I came to a stream: it crossed my path under the bridge, but appeared to be flowing the other way.....
The hell with it: not possible, must get new glasses, downhill is the right way.
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A kilometer later I came to another roundabout, this one with about 5 roads flowing through it and not a tram in sight (but several buses criss-crossing it, some of which were apparently going to the station: I made a mental note of the service numbers in case I got lost). I crossed when the light gave me right of way, and had to jog the second road as the lights changed back against me ridculously quickly, given the length of the crossing, and looked around again for a map. There was one across from me (a shorter distance and I made it at a stroll) and close to it a small tourist information ccentre - this is more like it! I ambled over, looking around the little narrow lanes running away to one side, with attractive old buildings on either side of them. The tourist place was closed and locked, with no notice of opening hours - it was only about 1:30 and a Thursday and still summer (although not peak season) so I was a little surprised. Okay then, back to the map.
It was big and colourful, and showed a network of roads and small parks and notable buildings (the police, a museum, an art gallery), but not a sign of a lake anywhere. I looked more closely, and tried to trace something familiar: the You Are Here elipse that all such maps (including the one on Google) was clearly visible, and the road layout looked about right. But of the two roads on the map that bracketed the You Are Here marker, neither carried the same road sign as the ones on the actual roads - even the one I had just spent a half hour following was missing. Most odd.
I stood there for a moment, then thought the hell with it - keep heading downhill (at least it's easier than walking up!) and that little narrow street looks a bit Old Towny......
Mind made up, I strolled away from the useless tourist map towards one of the narrow and picturesque roads across the car park.
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It turned out to be a good choice. A narrow bridge crossed a small stream burbling away downhill, through overhanging trees and with a couple of ducks paddling against the current, and at the end of it stood a small statue. It was very pretty and despite its proximity to the bus crossing quite peacful. I looked around and saw, across a small car park, a narrow strreeet, apparently cobbles, leading up between two old looking buildings - very much the typical entrance to a Polish Stary Miasto (Old Town) in any settlement larger than a village.
The little road ran up a sharp incline, on either side of which was a selection of bars and restaurants with a variety of chairs and tables and branded sun-umbrellas, and the odd souvenir shop or newsagents. I checked some of the menus: all offered a typically tourist selection of traditional Polish fayre (chicken or tomato soup, pierogi dumplings with meat or cabbage or mushroom fillings, pork or chicken cutlets fried in breadcrumbs with fries or mashed potatoes and coleslaw), plus pizzas and an assortment of pasta dishes, ice creams or fresh fruit for dessert, and a wide range of local beers and soft drinks. All at reasonable prices. I was tempted, but still had my packed lunch and really wanted to find this harbour, so I moved on.
It was indeed a Stary Miasto, though whether the main one or part of a group (for want of a better description) I'm still not sure. It was quite small, so I tend to think it was one of a number scattered around the city. In any case, it was indeed a pretty area, perhaps 100m on a side, cobblestoned, with an imposing (but by Polish standards small) church in the centre. More restaurants and souvenir shops lined each side, but here were mixed with a small number of popular clothes stores, grocery shops and the inevitable apteka. I spotted a patisserie in some shade (the day was at its hottest, 27C or thereabouts and not a cloud in the sky and I was feeling decidedly sticky), so some refreshment seemed a good idea. It was: a fine cup of vanilla latte and big slice of a beza (meringue) cake topped with fresh fruits and whipped cream cost me 20zl (about four quid) - excellent value and delicious.
My Beloved called (as does regularly every day) and was a tad gobsmacked to find me in Olsztyn rather than at home looking after the animals - but happy that I was having fun. She also suggested I called a close friend of hers who comes from the town if I needed any help....so, as I was a bit lost, I did that. Ania (the friend) was, bless her, a bit flustered because her English is not fluent (but much better than anyone else in Olsztyn, at least on the day I was there), and once we had figured out where I was, gave me directions to the nearest couple of lakes, between which is a station where I could catch my train home without hiking all the way back to the Głowny terminus. Happy days! Armed with the sms she sent me with the directions, off I went again.
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It took me perhaps 10 minutes to get lost. This was nothing whatever to do with Ania's directions, but simply down to my own incompetence.
I had to leave the square by the way I had arrived (simple), past the little bridge and across the road onto the one I had come down originally (equally simple), then follow it downhill for about a kilometer and under a railway bridge by a busy road (straightforward). To my right and across the street was a station: I assumed the one Ania had told me about. I went to look, but the station name was not Olsztyn Zachodny (West) but something else. I retraced my steps, turned right under the bridge and followed the tracks looking for the correct one, through an estsate of newish looking apartment blocks. At the end, close to another railway bridge, I caught a glimpse of water.
It was indeed a lake, and a big one too, with a water sports centre, squash and tennis courts and a small jetty for sailing boats. On the water perhaps a dozen of these were scudding along on the gentle breeze, while a similar number of jet skis and windsurfers enjoyed themselves more dangerously. Backing onto the entrance a flight of steps led up to another small railway station - but this one wasn't Olsztyn Zachodny either. Now I was really lost....
Ania had told me the lake was close to Zachodny station, and I would see it on the left hand side as I came into town on the train. But here, the lake was on the right hand side. It was small lake, she had said, and this one was certainly not that - it must have been a good couple of kilometers to its furthest extremity, maybe a bit more.
So back towards town again, back through the apartment blocks to the main road, and back to the first station I had seen but from the other side. Slap forehead time: it was indeed Zachodny (I had read the wrong sign before - doh!). Good - now I know where I am...where is the lake. I still couldn't see anything, so as the platforms were elevated at the top of a high bank I climbed up steps to look from the better vantage point they offered. And there, no more than a couple of hundred meters away, through a clump of trees (that provided cover at ground level) was a small, long and narrow lake, on the left hand side as you head into town, visible from the train, clearly. Bingo.
I had to go through a grubby underpass, littered with empty cans and sweet wrappers and things that looked decidedly unsavoury (but at least not smelling of stale piss, as so many underpasses do all over the world) and then across a poorly maintained road to get to the lake. It was pleasant enough, and much smaller and quieter. A new looking tarmac path followed the lakeshore, which was quite steep with only a few flat sandy areas to access the water, and covered with thick reed beds and assorted bushes. Every hundred meters or so, on alternate sides of the path, there were iron and wood-slat bench seats, each with an trash can adjoining it - in contrast to the underpass there was very little litter anywhere.
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I spent a nice couple of hours there, just chilling out and reading and watching the world go by, then ambled up to Zachodny - I had a good couple of hours before the train was due, but the sun was going down quite quick;ly now and the temperature dropping. The station was more or less deserted, perhaps half a dozen people, and there was no waiting room, so I had no option but to go for another mooch around the neighbourhood. I didn't really know whereabouts I was, except that it was a good six kilometers, maybe more, from Olsztyn Glowny, all of them uphill, and the idea of hauling all that way to catch a train that was scheduled to stop here 5 minutes after its departure made no sense. I knew nothing of this part of town at all: it was clearly mainly residential (not a factory or warehouse in sight), so I felt somewhere close by there should be at the very least a supermarket where I could get some food (mine was all gone).
I turned left leaving the station, for no particular reason than that it was downhill, and ambled off. There was not much to see: a big church across the street and about 50m down the only building that wasn't an apartment block. The road curved right beside the church, and when I got there I saw it ran over a bridge, I assumed over trhe stream I had crossed earlier in the day and at a higher elevation. Just to my left there was a weir and the water rushed through in a white-water torrent, flowing quickly through a small park with swings and roundabouts under the surrounding trees. On the bank of the stream, where a right turn slowed the water's flow, stood a watermill on the side of what looked like a re-furbished factory. More to the point, above the river bend, overhanging the water, was a terrace holding some tables, chairs and the ubiquitous branded umbrellas. A bar.
When I got there, I settled at a table right by the water's edge, and checked the menu. There was not a lot of choice, at least as far as food was concerned, but the place was a micro-brewery and boasted an array of half a dozen of its own potions alongside the locally brewed (but nationally popular) Łomża and the ever populat Tyskie and Lech beers. I had just under an hour to kill, so settled for a big glass of the brewery's own IPA - and very nice it was too.
Then back to the station in the gathering darkness. By the time the train came in, another brand new EMU, it was pitch dark. When it stopped the door closest to me was the entrance to the WARS restaurant car - very convenient. I'd walked through these Polsh institutions many times over the years and they always seemed to be crowded so had never used them. One stop into its journey, this one was empty, so I decided to give it a try. A favourite travel YouTuber had recently posted a 50,000 Subscriber Q&A in which he stated WARS were his favourite on-board caterers (this from a seasoned traveller who had sampled train catering all over the world - Amtrak, Eurostar, Deutsche Bahn - you name it - so should know what he's talking about) - as good a recommendation as any.
I settled in with a litre bottle of Łomża and a Family Pack of Lay's salted ridged crisps, dug out my book - as it was pitch dark there was nothing to see outside - to enjoy the two hour ride. Another couple of passengers joined me at separate tables, but it was very quiet and relaxing. I enjoyed it, and decided whenever I next take a long-distance train ride in Poland I will do likewise and sample the WARS cooked meu (which looks rather excellent and well priced).
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As the train pulled into Warszawa Gdanski station, bang on time, a twenty minute Metro ride from home, I reflected with satisfaction on a good day. Sure, I never did find the Olsztyn city centre and its apparently picturesque harbour area, but that gives me an excuse to make a return journey. What I saw of the place has whetted my appetite nicely.
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